| View of the foothills of the Andes en
route to Penitentes resort. |
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Journal:
"January 11, 2000 - Heading to
Penitentes - The next morning we were up at 6:30am showering and heading for
breakfast. By 8am Rafael (our driver) had arrived to take us to pick up
fuel for the stoves and climbing permits.
During the drive we heard news of an
accident on the mountain - four people died the day before on the route we are
taking - no details, or even a word if the bodies had been removed.
Apparently, according to Bruce, more people die on Aconcagua than any other
mountain in the world. (This seemed to be more confirmed later when we
heard two other climbers - a Mexican woman and a Japanese women - died on the
mountain as well.) The typical cause of death is people becoming tired at
high altitude, resting while others move on, and never getting up - suffering
pulmonary or cerebral edema and freezing to death. Though parties do die
from slipping off the mountain, sometimes taking a roped group with them.
Obtaining
permits was straightforward, a small building with a few clerks where you filled
out a form with your passport #, insurance info, and route and you are ready to
go. We stopped next at a "white gas" depot to get our cooking
fuel - which we put into 1.5 liter water bottles that we had emptied over the
prior days.
We returned to the hotel and went through the
laborious effort of carrying our gear down the elevator, out the hotel, and out
to the van. We had about twelve 9000 cubit-inch duffle bags - each large
enough to carry one of us inside, as well as seven day packs. We left one
duffle and several smaller bags at the hotel, loaded everyone in the van, and
headed off toward Penitentes - where we would stay the night at higher altitude
and organize the mules before w start the climb tomorrow morning.
We drive for about 2.5 hours and stop at a restaurant
about an hour outside Penitentes. While we ate we were surprised by Monica
and Dave, the attendants of the hostel in Penitentes. They stayed for only
a few moments, as they were heading back to finish preparations for us, and we
finished our meals - which for the various people consisted of hamburgers,
steaks, pizza, and garlic chicken - a common theme among our meals.
On our final stretch the van began to overheat and we had
to pull over and add water to the radiator. The temperature was in the
80's and we had been driving up hill since Mendoza in a fully loaded van.
Half an hour later we arrived at Penitentes and were greeted with hugs from
Monica and a friendly handshake from David.
We immediately unloaded and began prepping
the bags for the mules. Each bag had to weigh around 30kg and the mules
would take two a piece. My bag, not including the day pack, weighed in at
31kg - fine. Pump's was about 35kg and had to be split among some of
the lighter bags.
Each pair of us was assigned a room -
Pumps and I got #11 - my lucky number - and we settled in. There was
plenty of time before dinner so we chatted amongst ourselves, with the other
groups at the hostel, or watched TV - the hostel had DirectTV! Pumps read
in the paper the cause of death of the four climbers the day before - they were
roped together on a traverse of moderate difficulty when one slipped and took
them all off - one of the risks of roping up.
There were two other groups at the hostel:
one of Germans, Austrians, and Swiss and another of Australians. Everyone
got together at 8:30 for dinner and then one by one headed to bed - tomorrow
would start the trek across a desert and begin the ascent of Aconcagua."
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